After a walk through the extraordinary Painted Canyon, we drove down red dirt roads to find Initial Rock, where two of General Custer's men carved their names at an overnight camp in 1876, en route to what would become known as the Battle of Little Big Horn.
From Initial Rock we headed east, eventually making our way to Prairie Knights, a casino and hotel just south of Cannonball, owned and run by the Standing Rock Sioux. It is a peculiar, and somewhat terrifying place, filled with cigarette smoke and slot machines.
I was one of five Scottish writers chosen by Edinburgh International Book Festival to undertake extraordinary journeys across the Americas in spring and summer 2017.
I will be travelling through the United States for three weeks, from north to south, beginning in North Dakota, through Appalachia, and ending in Louisiana. For much of this time I will be accompanied by the novelist Jennifer Haigh.
You can follow my progress on Twitter and Instagram, and keep up-to-date with all the travellers using the hashtag #Outriders.